I appreciate the help youve given to everyone as it continually helps me! I watched the butterflies start to open at about 35 on TPS. hard start about 1/2 throttle from stop it bogs down after 3 or 4 seconds.What I It will still change a bit with weather changes and when you get into infrequently-used sections of the map, but it's nothing to worry about.Regarding your idle speed immediately after start-up, that is determined by your Idle Parked Position. However, I have never found that to be the case. There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. And the rather cavalier "Absolutely!" Hi. The tps has slotted holes, can you adjust it to get to zero? Hi Chris , greetings from Down Under (AUS) Just a note on the hi fuel pressure issue . Thank you. What must remain foremost in your mind is that the only thing that can cause the idle to increase is additional air getting into the engine. Installed sniper on 65 galaxie. The noise changes sound with the throttle position. Is that normal? )So before I hook up another gauge to see if the Auto Meter is bad (assuming I can find a 0-100 test gauge in my shop). I can adjust at 160deg, but my fans turn on at 180deg. Thanks for the great question! Keep in mind that at 60 miles the What would cause the idle to faulter like that? It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. Ok, so there are a couple peculiar things going on here. But another thing to consider is adjusting your target A/F ratio. This will go a long way to improving your fuel map without manually adjusting the acceleration enrichment. If I try and get the 2-10% i get all the way up to 1200 rpm. For someone in your position, it will become an indispensable tool in your tool box. Hello This may sound crazy but I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you don't have an idle issue--you have a timing issue. So you installed your Holley Sniper. If you feel you have no other choice but to run a Sniper and stand-alone controller then you can give this a try. At any rate, once the setting was moved up, the RPM jumped right to the target RPM and was solved. After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. Should I just disable idle timing control? (If you do this you will need to reset the -40 degree setting mentioned at the top of this article. Otherwise, if removing the air cleaner eliminates the whistle then try to use a thicker gasket or try lightly greasing the gasket. The Sniper EFI Manal says not to but many EFI installers have informed me that the transmission only reads the 5V TPS signal from the Sniper EFI & does not draw any power so will not affect the Sniper EFI TPS output. Also if I give it a Save Share. Since your target is probably more like 700, and since 2400 is way over 1700 RPM, it's going to leave the IAC in the park position.Buckle down and find how air is getting into your engine. Second, Holley just released over the weekend a video on how to implement a flex fuel sensor on their HP and Dominator ECU's. Common killers: No filter in front of the pump, reverse wiring, driving with PWM voltage, running at dead-head pressure.Since it sounds like your pressure is right, and since the Holley system doesn't provide a PWM voltage, that pretty much rules out everything but the lack of a filter. What I would recommend is getting somewhere that you can spend a significant amount of time doing starts. That's what you're seeing. But, if the idle is so high that it is making you crazy then you might try dropping that number just a bit. All times are GMT-6. It is always best to get the base map as close as possible before adding acceleration enrichment. I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. It won't take much! If you have somehow overlooked this, start here: Holley Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions: Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard. and go to restart warm, it catches starts for a flick of a second, drops to a stall, or sometimes will catch its self and start. When the lambda is 1.0, the displayed AFR is 14.7;1 REGARDLESS OF THE FUEL. And, hopefully, within those degrees you will find a place where you don't get the whistle. Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. Hello, Chris, thanks for the help.I have not installed the software yet, and I'm having trouble with two cars. 680-700.I can't find any reason other than it looses where it is in the firmware with The Sniper EFI system looks at the closed-loop fuel compensation required to reach your target AFR. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. Which means you either need to increase that number or increase the ramp decay time. I called support line he said he would have to look into it and call back. Shut off the engine, ensure power to the Sniper is switched off. The very first thing I would do is get ground truth on your timing. How can I adjust the startup speed down to about 1400 RPM? This can cause the engine to run rough and may even lead to engine damage. Hey Chris The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. You can drop it down and you will find it will behave more like you expect. If you can track specific engine coolant temperatures where the engine stumbles and dies that would be a good place to start. Even 50 RPM can make a difference in how much impact the transition to Drive has on the idling engine's ability to stay at a fixed RPM.I would not recommend it in this situation but anytime a "kick" in idle speed is desired that is easily done by setting the kick value in Tuning > Advanced > Adv. Maybe here will work better ?Sniper High Fuel PSIMy fuel psi is over 90 according to a brand new Auto Meter pro mechanical gauge tied in at the inlet to the Sniper using an AN adapter.I did the search function on here and found a similar high PSI issue that was fixed by clearing the return line.I have checked the return line hose for kinks and have removed it and blew thru it without any back pressure. You should get a light spray evenly distributed in all four barrels. When you set the Static Timing to 15, what did you read with the timing light? I enalble the idle timing control and fired it back up Iac was at 32% but it would come back down after a bit to around 26%. Given the circumstances I would say that it is either the IAC motor itself or RFI but you seem to have ruled both of those out. When you first posted this I had no idea how to respond. The last pic is with the car in Drive. No timing control, coil negative ignition type. If I put the truck in neutral the TPMS will raise all the way up over 2000. You might have a bad O2 sensor, really bad exhaust leak or a problem with the ECU. And so glad you guys are enjoying the Sniper EFI system. Interesting situation you have. Get a solid feeling for where it is when the engine is warm and the idle speed is correct. I installed a Holley Sniper on my Ford Maverick 302 V8. Software: Idle > IAC Settings > Idle Spark, Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark, After completing this 10-step process, if the temperature displayed on the handheld is still above 160 degrees the engine should go right to it's target. My problem with the sniper is the whistling and hard throttle pedal, I have a 700r tranny with a kick down cable. If you have performed the adjustments above and still have RPM issues, it's time to look for clues. Watch videos on installation hints and if you haven't yet, download & read every Sniper installation guide you can find online. If you set the RPM above idle to start ramp too high, then it may not ever get down to the RPM above idle to re-enable. You have to remove all hoses in order to debug the problem. Definitely would have went with you guys. This curve turns the idle speed down as the engine warms. Find a lower price anywhere and we'll beat it by 5%! However, I always preach to never touch any of the controls on the handheld until you have a couple hundred miles on the engine in a range of driving situations. Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. Check the Distributor Tach Connection to the EFI. I have installed my Sniper and the car runs great. Ensure that the secondary linkage is completely closed (both visually and manually.). Your task will be to find that. Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. But if the idle is a little bit higher then it doesn't have to jump quite as much in response to the load, and tends to react a little bit more smoothly. I presume your idle speed table doesn't increase at 200 degrees? Be aware that there is a spring behind there and a diaphragm that you don't want to tear. That, I am afraid, is going to involve a little bit of luck if you don't want to create a 250 MB data log. Maybe give it a half-turn before you start it and then start and tweak. I've helped folks work through a number of challenges with their Sniper EFI System installations. The manifold pressure increases with the throttle opening but the RPMs are still low. No matter what do, my idle will not drop below 1350-1400 RPM when the engine warms. Sniper EFI offers superior throttle response and wide-open throttle power. Those little 1/8 NPT gauges are pretty inexpensive and generally pretty easy to find locally.If you confirm that the pressure is indeed 90 PSI you could pull the fuel pressure regulator apart and check it. Car has run perfect every time and has never hesitated or stalled since. You will have to do this until the TPS stays at 0% when the throttle is closed. But as you see from the recent revision I did above you seem to be having a fixable issue. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. If you patiently adjust this over the course of days you will get it just right.Again, glad this is working for you and look forward to a good report in the future! I'd suggest that you assume everything the previous owner did was wrong until you can prove that it was done correctly. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. The Tech Tips and discussions are also great! 30 minutes later CTS reads 161, start engine Idle is jumping from 450 (almost stall) to 1500, IAC is jumping all over 10 90. )Then look a the datalog and find out what TPS ROC and MAP ROC is most likely to cause the problem. Please let us know how this works out for you! We have shipped quite a few of these to customers in Australia and New Zealand so I know that there is becoming a good following there!We recommend this Inline 10-micron fuel filter to prevent problems like that. The only way to confirm RFI problems is by doing a data log. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is jumping around from 35 to 60. One additional wrap on the secondary coiled shaft spring is all that's necessary. New install, when in setup wizard TPS says 90 percent and I checked the linkage and butterflies. I did check for the lightning under the hood but all was well. Cycling the power to the Sniper EFI would cure the problem, but not prevent it from coming back. In the datalog the engine is running at 1400 RPM, TPS is zero, IAC is zero, CTS is 185F but it's in Open Loop. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issues. :-). Running the vacuum advance and of course I time it disconnected. After much diagnosis, I ended up replacing the intake manifold gaskets. I asked him a million questions and waited a long time to save up before purchasing the system and I have asked a lot of questions throughout the installation process. So, clearly, the "No" answer is wrong. normal city driving, I no longer have other problems I had with the original If i adjust the throttle plate screw in to bring IAC in to proper range say around 7 the engine is running around 2000 rpm. Either the Walbro pumps you are getting are not genuine (lots of forgeries being sold) or else you have something that is killing them. Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems. That is the IAC hold position. If I put the truck in park it comes down to idle. Enjoy your Sniper! That Hello Chris. They also worked with me on a sale I missed and price matched those parts. :-) Just don't let the parts go flying. Start with the most gradual throttle input you need to launch well, then slightly increase until you feel some stumble. Put a strong piece of tape over the IAC breather hole--duct tape or something that couldn't possibly be sucked into the throttle body. It is temperature dependent but 30 is commonly where you find it. An under-sized filter will allow part- throttle operation but fuel pressure will drop at WOT and run very lean - perhaps surge under power. check, I guess after reading everyone saying how great the system is after Suddenly, the engine accelerates alone, hears a great deal of air being sucked in, The first 250-300 miles were amazing as the Sniper EFI worked flawlessly. Duration @.050 is 240 intake 246 exhaust with .574/.578 lift. It's hard to know what the previous owner did right versus wrong. I believe that for the HyperSpark the Reference Angle should be 57.5. Good afternoon Chris, thanks for taking the time to help all of these folks that didn't purchase from you- myself included!The issue I seem to be having is at idle in both park/neutral and drive. So check that timing and I think that you're going to find you need a good bit of advance. Or is there something else I should Overview. The "PC Text" indicates what will be shown on the PC/Laptop data monitor or data logger. Others might require 60 RPM. It will drop down to 400 RPM then climb 500 and then shoot to 900 and then come back sometimes two or three times then catch it self an idle just fine again. The last 2 times have been shorter and one time the high idle was around 1400, this time around 1100. You can disable the idle spark control at the locations below. After speaking with Holley Tech Support and Tech Support from where I purchased the systemthey decided to replace it. These aren't generic newsletters either but instead personalized emails. I got it home, checked it all over, everything is hooked up correctly. We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. The next time it happens is the perfect opportunity to find the problem. Definitely not 90. If you have any questions about the car/setup let me know. :-). We can not hit it at all, we hit the pedal abruptly, the engine gives a lot of excess fuel, the AFR gets super poor at first, the car stops, then the AFR gets super rich and the car runs until it cleans up. This happens no matter how much I adjust the idle screw. any ideas? I installed the Holley gauge you suggested in another thread at the fuel input to the TBI, and the fuel pressure is constant around 64 according to the gauge. If you have a bellcrank in your throttle linkage, ensure that the linkage is not engaging the bellcrank at an angle greater than 45 degrees at either end of the throw. It is good to at least know that the Sniper fuel pressure regulator can have high pressure failure issues (contrary to what I posted to Scott back on April 13th!) check out the. On a cold start it will idle at 750 everytime, But if its hot start it will jump upto 1600rpm for 2 seconds then come back to 750. If no air is passing (and the idle doesn't drop) then your IAC is working. Once it decides to come back down, it does so with no issue. I am new to the EFI scene but want to learn. Just wondered if you've ever run across a system not powering up? About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. To figure this out it's going to be important to gather a bit more data. I'm happy to walk you through what is required. Realize that when you drop the throttle, the engine enters a condition it will only see for a fraction of a second at a time. As soon as I got the new one installed and wiredit fired right up and did everything it was suppose to do with no issues. So, if pressing the throttle is making it start, it's because you're flooded.Which is consistent with your rich idle condition comment, right? no timing control. Then a little faster--until bogs at that level work themselves out. When I put it in park the idle RPM was 2100-2200 each time. It would be possible to set up a 1D or 2D table and do something like this, so if you've gotten into these advanced setups then that would be another thing to check.If neither of these work then I'd recommend that you do a data log of the engine idling as the temperature is reaching and then exceeding 200 degrees. If the ECU has not spent some significant time learning yet, I'd recommend going back through the setup wizard and getting everything back to default. Going back to what you said. Hello Chris. It is a common one. I did notice that when I thought I had it set This is normally used as an A/C idle-up circuit. When running it will only stay in closed loop and learn at idle. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. That is what I really respect about Holley. I started with right after I first adjusted for 2% IAC and took pics about every 30 seconds over about 2 minutes. NOTE: Do not attempt to set the target idle speed and IAC position until the engine is above 160F! That is the default "Clear Flood" TPS setting and turns all fuel off until the engine cranks. I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. And all too often we don't take that extra step of using a piston stop to ensure that the timing pointer is on zero when the engine is truly and exactly at top dead center. Using a Snap-on variable timing light so this is why I say timing is perfect. No, the idle speed curve setting isn't something that you normally worry about--and especially not down at minus 40 degrees farenheit. If you suspect this then try to find a situation where this occurs where you can safely check the secondary throttle shaft and see if i's slightly open. I would continue checking the electrical connections along the fuel supply. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JpHlS1ymBc, If this is your first visit, be sure to
I am Japanese who attached Sniper EFI. I was looking at a data log from my truck earlier this week and noted that at idle my IAC was zero. The TPS will go red with a -15 and the AFR reads heating for a split second, then the idle kicks up to 2000RPM. At some point you come upon problems that evade the easy answers and this is a good example. >I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. I installed Holley Sniper on three other Mavericks here in Brazil and the problem also exists.I did not make any changes to the parameters, only on Target AFR and the correction on the Idle Speed Curve chart. Getting the throttle blades and IAC to work together will keep your fuel injected hot rod running smooth and predictable. Last night I tried setting the IAC and had the same problems after it's warmed up. 3 different fuel pumps. You advise would be greatly appreciated. The Super Sniper will allow you to monifor fuel pressure if you add an electronic sender but this is not an option with the standard Sniper. I have a feeling it's something simple but I thought I'd ask you first before I inadvertently change something that affects other areas. when things aren't working and this provides just that. By the way your site and your accessory products are nice. Bottom line ismy first one must have been faulty. Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. I have a bone stock 350 that I installed a Sniper on and had the same whistle noise, presumably from air going past the butterflies. Very annoying ended up being simple my rear plates would stay open constantly it was driving me nuts I'd let off the pedal idle at 1300 blip the throttle a few times finally come back to 850. Maybe Holley will add Fuel Prime Multiplier to Terminator X later. Its rare that you find someone that genuinely wants to help and see something work good, the information I have received from this page and Chris himself is top notch.1969 Dart GT 340 with a Holley Sniper, I purchased the Holley sniper from jegs wish I knew you sold them put on my truck got the IAC set haven't checked the -40 idle setting yet my problem is my headers are glowing red called Holley I think I got the worst person seemed to care less Afr is set at 12.8 for idle only thing I have changed I don't smell any fumes at idle someone said I could change the coolant temp enrichment but I don't know if it is rich or lean I figured since no smell it is lean any ideas would be appreciated thanks i have a fuel psi gauge reads 60 psi don't wanna melt my motor did not glow with a carburetor. That is not a huge problem but it just means the IAC has no ability to lower the idle beyond what it is running at that point. Edit I just ordered a Holley return / regulator and cap for the sniper ouletOh, this is not an OEM Master Kit, but the fuel pump should be the same EFI Pro shipped this kit. First, check to make sure that the IAC is properly mounted and connected. Do I need to try taping up the IAC port and setting the idle off the idle screw? I think that your timing is too retarded. Next, clean the IAC and all related parts with brake cleaner. the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. If you can send a data log to the vendor from who you bought your Sniper EFI System they should be willing and able to take a look and recognize RFI and then give you some ideas on solving it. Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. Thank you for your input. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. My primary reason for going EFI was drive-ability, (Startup and take off without waiting for the engine to warm up) and not have the occasional hesitation a carburetor has especially just barely opening the secondaries. First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. ChrisI finally got everything resolved. All EFI systems need a large fuel filter to trap dirt and yet not reduce volume. I'll bet you find that you can get it working great without any manual tuning. I'd recommend you contact Holley Tech support to get their input (1-866-464-6553; call early for the shortest wait times.) Thank you in advance for your help and providing us rookies with your We will definitely be sticking with Holley from here on out for future retro-fits. I put sniper on in hopes to be able to just turn key and start without fumbling with pedal to keep it going and to correct idle drop when ac kicks on. :-). If I go any more it will ping. I notice at 2-3% tps the iac is 18-25% and it stumbles, when the iac gets to my hold position of 30 it stops. engine works beautiful, the car runs a lot, but suddenly, the engine does that. If you haven't confirmed that they it is worth checking. On startup- cold or hot, I get a 2 second high idle of about 1500 RPM before normal set idle of 750 RPM happens. That is not something I'd ignore. Just add 5 or 10 degrees of advance and see if it doesn't idle better. Turned it off and on again. Car was running great initially. I have adjusted many settings and eventually mess it up and go back to the original map. I have checked the pink wire and it is at .001 volts when key is off. Please check your process again and see if you can see very specifically what is not working correctly. When you experience this, before you touch anything or shut the engine down, first look at your TPS and your IAC. The first thing I'd do is check your fuel pressure with a gauge like this. So I have been driving it for about 400 miles now to numerous car shows and going out for cruises around town, trying to work some of the bugs out from everything we did this winter, but I notice when I take off from a stop sign or I cruise at a very low speed (say30 mph) it seems to be very boggy from no throttle to about 1/8th throttle. Were the additional load a simple step function it would be challenge enough for the ECU to gracefully increase the engine speed without overshooting. Holley Idle Air Control Motor Idle Air Control Motor Fits the Following Applications: Sniper EFI 90 mm, 92 mm, 102 mm Throttle Bodies Digital Pro-Jection Systems Avenger 4-bbl TBI Commander 950 Terminator TBI After 50 on the throttle position I'm not sure if the whistle goes away or you just can't here it anymore. Good luck! I've not heard of any others with this exact issue so I don't think it is a common problem. I haven't driven it for the 30-40 minutes like the several times it idled at 2200. There's nothing wrong with manual tuning, but at this point that is just compensating for an inadequate fuel map. Going in the direction you did (higher) is going to reduce the acceleration fueling that the engine sees. Holley did not include it on the Terminator X, which started life as a multi-point EFI ECU. Once we recognize that, the next step is to narrow down all possible sources of additional air until we discover the cause.Start by keeping an eye on your IAC number. Without it you are working in the dark. I've been messing around for a bit trying to eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. lower until I turn down the set screw. You might even want to add our 4-foot extension harness that will allow you to connect/disconnect the display or CAN-to-USB adapter from inside the car (rather than trying to do that leaning over the engine and under the breather. That way you can get into that part of the table that needs tuning, and you can watch your learn numbers grow. EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. If the TPS reading on your Sniper EFI System does not reset to zero that is a problem that needs to be addressed. issue. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. Then it started behaving oddly. I put it in neutral and the idle RPM had increased to 2100-2200. Please help. would correct it (as it has for a multitude of other drive-ability issues) but this one little glitch seems out of it's range. You're going to have to get this fixed or it's going to cause even more problems than the high idle. If your fuel pressure is at or about 60 PSI then visually inspect the barrels of the throttle body while having someone key on the Sniper. carburetor setup, but it does blow when I can't jump on the highway like I use That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. Now that you've got your IAC set I'm going to recommend that you run your setup wizard again, which will reset the ECU to the default settings.
Salisbury High School Football Coach, Articles H
Salisbury High School Football Coach, Articles H